LIANYUNGANG DAPU METAL CO.LTD
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Professional Knife Steel

AISI 1084
High Carbon Steel

The legendary "beginner-friendly" steel that performs like a pro. Perfect for forging, grinding, and easy heat treating without a kiln.

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Easy Heat Treat Simple oil quench
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High Toughness Resists chipping
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Flat Bar Stock Ready to grind
1084 Steel Flat Bar transformed into custom knife
60+ HRC Achievable Hardness

The "Goldilocks" Steel

Not too simple, not too complex. Why 1084 sits in the perfect "sweet spot" for heat treatment.

The Magic of 0.84% Carbon

In metallurgy, steel with ~0.8% carbon is called Eutectoid. This is the exact saturation point where iron absorbs carbon perfectly without leaving excess carbides.

What this means for you: You don't need to "soak" the steel at specific temperatures for 10-20 minutes like you do with other alloys. Once 1084 reaches critical temperature (becomes non-magnetic), it's ready to quench immediately. It solves the biggest problem for beginners: temperature control.

Low Carbon (1045) High Carbon (1095)
1084 (Sweet Spot)
1084 creates maximum hardness with minimum fuss. Lower carbon is too soft; higher carbon requires complex kilns.
1095 Steel Tricky

A great steel, but "Hypereutectoid" (excess carbon). It requires extremely fast quench oil and precise temps.

  • Needs Parks 50 (Fast Oil)
  • Small window for success
  • Prone to cracking
1084 Steel Perfect

The ultimate balance. Can be heat treated in a simple gas forge or even a coal fire with great results.

  • Works in Canola Oil
  • "Heat & Dunk" simple
  • Forgiving of errors
O1 Tool Steel Complex

Very tough, but requires a "Soak Time" (holding temp for 10-20 mins) to dissolve alloys properly.

  • Needs Temp Control Kiln
  • Will not harden fully in a forge
  • More expensive

Technical Specifications

Understanding the chemistry behind the performance. Why 1084 behaves the way it does.

Chemical Composition

Element Range (%) Function in Blades
C Carbon 0.80 - 0.93 Hardness & Edge Retention.
The primary hardening element.
Mn Manganese 0.60 - 0.90 Hardenability (Crucial).
Allows the steel to harden deeply in slower oils (like Canola) without cracking.
P Phos. 0.030 max Impurity. Kept low to prevent brittleness.
S Sulfur 0.050 max Impurity. Kept low to ensure forgeability.
1084 Steel Spark Test Pattern

*Distinctive high-carbon spark stream (lots of bursts).

Hardness Potential (Rockwell C)

Annealed (~20)
Working (~60)
Max (~65)

*1084 gets extremely hard out of the quench. Tempering brings it back to the usable 58-62 HRC range.

Ultimate Tensile Strength ~1084 MPa
Yield Strength ~640 MPa
Working Hardness 58 - 62 HRC
Forging Temp 2150°F Max

The 1084 "Recipe"

Follow these steps to turn soft steel into a high-performance blade.
Note: Temperatures are in Fahrenheit (°F) as per industry standard.

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1. Forging

1500°F - 2150°F

Forge the steel while it is hot (bright orange/yellow). Stop hammering when the color drops to a dull red. Do not overheat past bright yellow, as this causes grain growth.

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2. Normalizing (3 Cycles)

1600°F → Air Cool

Essential to relieve stress after forging. Heat the blade to non-magnetic, then let it cool in still air until black. Repeat this process 3 times, lowering the temp slightly each time.

Why do this? This refines the grain structure. Fine grain = Stronger blade & sharper edge.
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3. The Quench

~1500°F → Warm Oil

Heat the blade until a magnet no longer sticks to it (Curie point is ~1414°F). Go just a shade brighter red than that point. Plunge immediately into warm oil (130°F).

The Magnet Trick 🧲 1084 is eutectoid, so you don't need a thermometer. If a magnet doesn't stick, you are at the perfect temp. Quench it!
Recommended Oil: Canola Oil (works great!) or Parks 50.
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4. Tempering

400°F (2 Hours x 2)

The blade is now glass-hard and brittle. You must temper it immediately in a kitchen oven to add toughness. Perform two cycles of 2 hours each.

Target Use Temp (°F) Result (HRC)
Kitchen / Slicers 375°F - 400°F 61 - 62 HRC
General / Hunting (Best) 400°F - 425°F 60 HRC
Choppers / Axes 450°F + 57 - 58 HRC

In-Stock Flat Bars

Hot rolled, annealed, and pickled. Ready to grind.
Standard Lengths: 12", 24", 36", 48".

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Kitchen & Slicers

Thickness: 1/8" (3mm) & under
  • 1/8" x 1.5" In Stock
  • 1/8" x 2.0" In Stock
  • 3/32" x 1.5" Low Stock
View All 1/8" Stock
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Hunters & Bushcraft

Thickness: 5/32" - 3/16" (4-5mm)
  • 5/32" x 1.5" In Stock
  • 3/16" x 1.5" Best Seller
  • 3/16" x 2.0" In Stock
View All 3/16" Stock
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Choppers & Bowies

Thickness: 1/4" (6.35mm) +
  • 1/4" x 1.5" In Stock
  • 1/4" x 2.0" In Stock
  • 1/4" x 3.0" Pre-Order
View All 1/4" Stock
Custom Cutting Service: Need a specific length? We offer free cutting up to 2 cuts per bar. Oversized shipping rates apply for bars over 48".

Common Questions

Everything you need to know before you start grinding.

Can I quench 1084 in water?
We do not recommend it. While 1084 is a simple steel, water is too harsh and often causes the blade to crack ("ping") during the quench. For the best results and safety, use a dedicated quenching oil like Parks 50. For hobbyists on a budget, warm Canola Oil (heated to 130°F) works exceptionally well for 1084.
Does 1084 steel rust?
Yes. 1084 is a high carbon steel, not stainless. It will rust if left wet. However, this is a feature for many enthusiasts! Over time, it will develop a beautiful grey/blue patina that helps protect the blade. To prevent red rust, simply wipe the blade dry after use and apply a light coat of food-safe oil (like mineral oil).
1084 vs 5160: Which one should I choose?
It depends on the knife. Choose 1084 for small to medium hunters and kitchen knives where you want a fine edge and high hardness (60+ HRC). Choose 5160 (Spring Steel) for large choppers, swords, or axes where extreme toughness and shock absorption are more important than edge retention.
I don't forge. Can I use 1084 for stock removal?
Absolutely. Our 1084 comes in an annealed (soft) state. You can easily cut it with a hacksaw, grind it on a belt sander, or file it. Since you aren't forging (heating) it, you can skip the "Normalizing" step and go straight to heating and quenching once your shape is finished.